The final week of Eric and Nick’s visit was a productive one. On Monday, Eric and Nick took the high-speed ferry to Mo’orea to spend a couple of days exploring the small island that so beautifully decorates the horizon of the anchorage. Their adventures during the two-day visit included high-stakes gambling on hermit crab racing […]
Audentes
Audentes journal entries
Bumming Around Tahiti
The first order of business upon arriving in Tahiti was to clear in with the Port Captain. When we originally entered French Polynesia in the Marquesas, I was granted a one-month visa. This visa expired on Saturday and, on Monday, I found myself standing before an immigrations official as an illegal alien. Fortunately, a lively […]
Persistent Problems in Papeete, Polynesia
Undaunted by the dour forecast, we set off on Wednesday afternoon determined to sail for the promised land that is Tahiti. The first challenge standing in our way was the treacherous pass into the atoll that had intimidated more prudent boats, who chose to wait in Rangiroa for a more pleasant weather outlook. However, before […]
Swimming with Sharks
Rangiroa is the second-largest atoll in the world, surpassed only by Kwajalein in the Marshall Islands. Although it is considered the most touristy of the islands in the Tuomotus, the atoll retains a quiet atmosphere and lacks much in the way of development, aside from a few upper-end resorts. The atoll surrounds a huge lagoon […]
Floating Toward Nirvana
The atoll of Ahe is a quiet island that surrounds a large lagoon full of reefs and coral heads. Once inside, the lagoon resembles a large lake. Although Ahe is a single island, from a distance the shore appears to be broken by numerous passes to the open ocean. In fact, these opening are coral […]
Update from Ahe
On Friday, we motored from the main village of Taiohae, Nuku Hiva to Hakatea Bay on the southern tip of the island. The bay is better known as Daniel’s Bay, named after the friendly Marquesan man who lives near the anchorage. The protected bay is towered over by impressive rocky cliffs and the stunning surroundings […]
Surviving in Nuku Hiva
The short passage from Tahuata to Nuku Hiva was only 90 miles, but the light winds that ranged from three to ten knots made the passage last 26 hours. Departing at 3:00 pm on Saturday, we were able to arrive just before sunset on Monday evening thanks to the assistance of the cruising chute in […]
Going Native in Atuona
On Sunday morning, I woke up early and hitchhiked into town to attend mass at the Catholic Church in Atuona. Throughout my travels, I usually try to go to a service at the most impressive looking church in town, no matter what the denomination or language spoken. My churchgoing is less of a religious experience […]
Paradise Recovered
Hiva Oa is one of the most beautiful places that I have ever visited. Mountains shoot out of the sea and into the clouds, palm trees and bright flowers abound, and the people are unbelievably friendly. The island is largely undeveloped with only a small downtown featuring a few grocery shops, a single bank, a […]
28 Days
On Monday, after 28 days at sea, we anchored in the harbor of Atuona on the island of Hiva Oa in the Marquesas. Since leaving the Galapagos, we have traveled over 3,000 miles with our fastest day covering 171 miles while on our slowest day we only sailed 38 miles. Overall, our average speed was […]